Re-inventing the apron

After many years at the wheel, Joanna Howells was moved to re-invent the potter’s apron.

I had been meaning to make myself an apron for a long time, as there wasn’t anything available that ticked all the boxes. The arrival of Simona Stollo, through the ‘Adopt a Potter’ scheme, made me even more conscious of my responsibility for health and safety issues – not just for us, but for the students who came to Tythegston Pottery. I set to making us aprons while Simona was away visiting family in Italy. My first attempt, using an old plastic cycle cape worked perfectly – for a few days. The plastic material split far too readily. Back to the drawing board.

You’d think that making a potter’s apron is simple, but the requirements suddenly come crowding in. For me, the material needs to be light. I don’t want to feel that I’m wearing another substantial layer. It has to be split-leg, and I don’t want it hanging from my neck, so I want over-the-shoulder crossover straps. On the other hand, I don’t want crossover straps that catch on my hair as I put it on or pull it off over my head. I want a pocket. I want somewhere to dry my hands, which is right there when you need it. It must be waterproof and most important of all, safe against clay dust.

Finding the right material was no easy task. Simona had flown kites as a hobby and suggested kite material for its lightness, strength and water resistance. That was a masterstroke and set us on the right track. In the end, we just had to make a small leap from the polyester kite material to a completely smooth polyester, which is more flexible and more suitable for a garment fabric.

In my research I discovered that the technical definition of ‘waterproof’ is that the material can hold a bagful of water and not leak the tiniest drop. Well, forget it! That sort of material would be too heavy and also have a nasty, plasticky texture. It just isn’t necessary either – clay isn’t that wet.

A very good next-best is seriously water-resistant, and I found a PU-coated material that would make an apron no heavier than 160 grams. That’s almost gossamer for a potter and it doesn’t get heavier through the working day. Of course, I also had to choose a fabric that wouldn’t rustle every time you moved – that’s just annoying – and I eventually located a suitable material that swishes rather than rustles. So far so good.

However, the crossover straps were a headache. I watched students wearing the early prototypes getting hair and glasses caught in the straps as they put them on or, more often, pulled them off. There had to be a better way, so I experimented with clips that would pull the straps together at the back, and this worked.

After that, the pocket was easy, and it seemed straightforward to place the small towel on the other side. This had to be detachable, so another could quickly take its place. At the end of the working or teaching day, it’s so much more convenient to have a small pile of rinseable towels than a large pile of sodden, clay-smeared aprons.

Simona and I wore our prototypes until we’d ironed out the quibbles and drawbacks. Finally, we had a solution that worked for us both. I devised a longer version that I use to protect lower legs while glazing, and it’s also suitable for the very tall. One of my students, who is 6’ 5”, wanted an apron, but found the standard version too short. He is delighted with his long version, and I started using one of similar length while glazing.

Visiting potters and students always commented on the aprons and asked where we got them. At some point Simona and I had the same idea. If they were that good, there was a demand crying out for supply.

That, as they say, is a whole other kettle of fish. We soon understood that the outsourcing of manufacturing from Europe to many points East over the past 20 years means that the UK sewing industry, if it survives at all, does so by producing for high-end niche markets. We’re talking fancy lingerie retailing at £95 and upwards for a pair of women’s briefs. Nonetheless, we were determined to find a way of keeping production in the UK and as close to home as possible.

As we sought to keep the design simple, my crossover straps were causing a problem. They worked but were fiddly, time-consuming and therefore more expensive to sew. Finally, I had a solution. It was all about streamlining the design and sourcing the most suitable components. Now there’s not even a need to tie a bow behind your back. Once all the straps are adjusted to your size, it’s ‘arms in and click round the back’. You’re ready to pot.

Potters and students tested the apron at various stages of development and their comments were very helpful. I’m glad and relieved that the latest version has met with approval from the most rigorous assessors.

It soon became clear that the solution to keeping production in the UK could be found all around us in South Wales. Much has been written and said about the demise of the heavy coal and steel industries in our region, but less so of the sewing industry that once supplied high street retail outlets such as Marks and Spencer. There remains a large pool of highly skilled, experienced sewing machinists made redundant from the mid-1990s and onwards. We were lucky to find a super, self-employed woman who took the making in hand, drove our early production and offered great advice on detail. Thanks to her and others, we have been able to keep production in the UK without resorting to sweatshop-style remuneration.

An added bonus was the support and advice of James Otter, a Director at Potclays. He it was who pointed out something I didn’t know – that cotton fibres are very ‘grabby’ and retain the smallest, most dangerous clay particles even after washing. In effect, putting on a seemingly ‘clean’ cotton apron or washed clothes releases invisible puffs of fine dust as you move. Here was an additional reason for using a working garment that we are now calling a PotApron. It can be sponged clean or rinsed by hand and has an incredibly fast drying time. I rinse by hand, shake out the water and hang it up.

Although we managed to produce PotAprons at prices competitive with imports, it did mean that we began with a limited range of colours. At the outset you could have any colour you liked, provided it was either moss green or royal blue. But we have now added a silver grey, an eye-catching red and a navy blue.

The longer or shorter versions are made to order, but we do our best to keep the price the same, though delivery may take a few days longer. If you’d like a bespoke version, get in touch via the contact form at the bottom of this page.

PotApron – available from stockists listed below or direct from Joanna Howells at www.potapron.co.uk

PotApron® – design registration number: 4040547